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Material throughout will be Kneadatite 'Green
Stuff'.(hereafter referred to as gs) Exceptions will be noted. Firstly a large paper clip was bent to form a torso and two legs on which the first layers of of gs have been added to form a thin stick
figure. When this has dried the first layers of clothing have been added and a face modelled. This is the stage we have reached with the chap on the left. Now I personally, unless I get it right first time, I have
to 'work' on my figures. it is obvious that work needs to be done on the face and the right leg is not correct. Some errors will obviously disappear as clothing etc. ... is added.
In the second picture the face has been slightly
remodelled with the scalpel. His crotch cut away(ouch) and the legs reshaped again with the knife and addition of some gs smoothed into place with the blunt scalpel, water and a chisel clay shaper. I still don't
like the shape around his crotch but I will come back to that later. His coat has been added plus the turnbacks. Again the same basic tools. Some rough spots on his back were shaved and sanded with fine emery paper
. His face still needs work but I will leave that until later.
In the picture on the left the ears have been added and
the face slightly remodelled. As I type this I notice one eye is higher than the other. A cross strap has been put across. I like to add these after but if the result can be envisaged they can be cut into the wet
material of the coat and then worked into shape. A third method is to make the strap separate(on a flat non stick surface) and then fix it on. Which ever method, straps are tricky to get right. A buckle was cut into
the wet material, this will be tidied up later. An oblong piece of gs was placed for the beginning of the cartridge pouch.
Despite being very careful with the strap it still had to be shaved to flatten it out. When making figures some straps will have to made giving the impression of sinking into the cloth. These type of uniform jackets tend to be fairly tight where the straps cross and I have left them, literally sitting on the surface. This gives a good sharp line when they are cast. Perhaps a note of caution at this point. If a figure is going to be cast the rubber casting material picks up everything so imperfections will show. Perhaps I can illustrate this better. If a mould is made from a piece of material that has a strip of sellotape across it, believe me that the cast article will show clearly the difference in texture where the sellotape was!
In our next pic more straps have been added. Lapels on
the coat with buttons punched in with my button tool and the lid of the cartridge box(this will have to be trimmed) I used a blob of gs that was going off and the whole idea was too ambitious. I will probably pull
it off and do it again. The shoes were modelled, left to dry and then the gaiters, basis shape with the 47 tool, smoothed with the shaper(chisel) which I also used for start of the creases. As the material starts to
go off a line is cut where they button together, a row of buttons punched in and more creases added with the needle.The needle is also used to carefully put creases against the line, this gives an impression of
sharpness(note where I have also done this on the waistcoat around the buttons and against the belt.
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